Sewing Circle: Simple tie-neck top dress, so cute!

I love this dress on Sewing Circle today.  So cute!  But let me start at the beginning.  Here's the question from Jennie via the Facebook page:

Q: There's a dress that I've been looking at for a while but unfortunately, it's no longer for sale on ModCloth.  Any patterns you know that are close to this?

A: That dress is super cute, and totally DIY-able! Luckily, pattern companies have finally started making tie-neck blouse patterns, so you actually have a couple choices. 

 With the flattering V-neck shape in mind, I’d recommend McCall’s M6512 for the top, and just cut it on the center fold of the fabric rather than giving it the button closure. 

 Colette Patterns also has a top pattern that could work—the Jasmine blouse (you’d have to cut the collar and ties wider to get the same look). 

With either pattern, don’t give the arms the band/cuff; instead, give the edges and teeeeny, tiny hem.

You won’t need to cut the blouse part as long as the patterns call for, of course—just cut it to your natural waist plus 1” or so for seam allowance plus elastic casing. Then, for the skirt, just cut some rectangles that are 2” or so longer than you want the skirt to be, and each (front and back) not quite as wide as your waist measurement. You’ll be gathering it a little before you sew it to the bodice, and you want it to be not quite two times as wide as your waist before it begins, but you do want it big enough to cover your hips. If this is too confusing, you could use a pattern like the skirts on one of those cute Simplicity Cynthia Rowley patterns—like 2497, 2718, or 2406.

The way the dress is constructed, you can just sew right sides together but stagger the skirt and bodice so that you have a 1” seam allowance on the bodice piece and a ½” seam allowance on the skirt. Then, press the wider seam allowance under 3/8” or so, and sew it down, creating a self-fabric casing on the inside of the dress. Does that make sense?? Leave 1-2” open at the center back so you can feed some narrow elastic through your casing. Ta-da! Done, and no zipper or tricky fastening!

The other way to do this is even easier, but I’m betting would be less cute and would probably only work if you have very slim hips. You can just extend the length of the blouse to dress length, and then add a casing on the inside (just a strip of fabric with both edges turned under ½”) at the natural waist. Kind of like this BurdaStyle pattern. Then, the skirt will be less full. But it’s super easy.

What would you say, readers?  Have you seen the perfect pattern, or have you made a dress like this before??

Totally worth the time: Tracing my fave patterns onto cloth

Pretty excited to share with you about this one project I did over the weekend--the project that keeps on project-ing, right?  (That doesn't make sense.  Gift that keeps on giving, except I made the gift myself.)

Anyway, I've been meaning to do this for a while, but--you may have noticed that I have favorite patterns.  I almost never make them exactly as the package shows, but I use them as jumping off points to make whatever it is I want to make--that I know will fit.  My current faves are Simplicity 2444 and McCalls M5489 (out of print--try Simplicity 1876, Simplicity 3878, or Simplicity 4070 if you want your own!).

I love those two patterns, and I love that I know my exact size and how to get the perfect fit.  But when I use them allll the time, they get a little floppy and torn and fragile.  So, the ideal solution, I think, is to copy them onto pattern tracing cloth so I can reuse them indefinitely!

It's a bit of a pain, really, to trace every line and dart and snip mark, then cut out very carefully, but is totally worth it!  I'm really happy to have these ready for me to use.

Here's Simplicity 2444:

And here's my McCall's M5849, my strapless or basic summer dress pattern.  This style is great because you can make the bodice in practically 1/4 of a yard if your fabric is wide!  I've used it with small pieces of fabric many a time.

I'm excited to use these, and I'm sure they'll be easier to cut out with, also!  Paper slips around easily, you know, and I never pin my patterns down (I just use scissors, pincushion, my water glass!, etc. as weights!), so the friction of the fabric will be helpful.

Have you ever done this?  Do you have other solutions for reusing your fave patterns??

Okay, so, let's talk about the great clothes on Pan Am...

Everyone knows Mad Men has great costume and hair/makeup people, and we love the clothes.  But, due in no small part I'm sure to Mad Men's success, there are new sources to go for beautiful, vintage-look clothes and set design on modern people!  Wooo hooo, we love it!

I've been watching Pan Am, which just started this season, and I just feel like it's not getting enough press in the blog world for the cute clothes!  So here's some inspiration for you, from ABC's Pan Am photos.

Look at the pleats on this skirt!

More cute pleat details, and two dresses we would totally wear today...

OMG, these colors!  Love!

It's somehow always summer on the show... and if it's not, they're flying to tropical countries.  Handy.

Love the lace dress.

So, you know what I'm talking about?!  Have you seen the show?  And, I'm curious--what do you do with all this vintage-ey inspiration?  It just makes me wish I had more parties to go to, because I don't wear full-skirted dresses and perfectly pinned curls every day! ;)

Oooh!! An upcycled sequin dress

That's right, an upcycled sequin dress!  It was a top when I bought it at TJ Maxx for $7, post-holiday clearance, I think.

Anyway, I bought it for the sequins, because I've been craving them so!  Since around Christmas, when everyone was nuts for sparkles and sequins for New Year's Eve.  I never got any around then, but they're still in!  In fact, not that long ago I got an Express catalog for early spring and there were sequins all over it, too:

Express

So yay, they're still in for dress-up.  Anyway, I cut apart the top, taking off the arm, neck, and bottom binding, and then was basically left with two very short "T" shapes, almost rectangles.  You can see my "tutorial" here for taking apart a garment and turning it into something else.

Because the sequins were sewn onto basically a tan net, very lightweight and sheer, I gave the bodice and skirt a lightweight tan cotton interlining, and lined the bodice with a separate twill.  It worked really well; the bodice stands up for itself, you could say, and the skirt is drapey but obviously not sheer!  And you can't see any of the seam allowances through the outer layer, because of the interlining.

I used McCall's M5849, my good ol' standby, for the top, and miraculously was able to cut the skirt out of the rest of the fabric.

Ta-da!!

Oh, I should note.  This was THE MESSIEST project I've ever made!  Sequins flew everywhere as I cut!  And I used paper scissors, rather than my nice fabric scissors, because I didn't want to dull them on the plastic sequins, but oyyyy, this was a messy one to cut and sew.  I also used a leather needle on the machine because I broke a regular one.  It is possible to sew through sequins, but it's not easy-peasy!

But now I have something with sequins, at last!!

Oh, and the center back zipper was NO FUN to put into the sequin fabric!  I had to trim sequins off the center back before I put it in.  Again, messy project.

So, my tip for working with sequins?  Have a hand vac nearby.  Seriously, these things are still all over my house.  But, the dress is lots of fun!

How to Wear DIY: Lovely lace skirt and festive pastels

"Festive pastels" may not be quite the right term, but let me explain.  This month's Everybody, Everywear challenge is green, for St. Patrick's Day!  And I don't really own much green.  But, I love the site (check out the concept here if you're not familiar) and wanted to join in, so I pulled out this pretty pastel green cardi.  Paired with what is definitely becoming one of my fave skirts, the lace one I made not long ago, I think it's a pretty but not over-the-top festive springy look.

It's getting to be almost too late in the year for my (wintery) suede flower pumps!  Almost.

Sweater: Target via Goodwill. Top: Old Navy. Necklace: Forever 21. Belt: Charlotte Russe.

Shoes: Vince Camuto. Skirt: DIY, upcycled vintage lace dress!

Of course, it's not quite spring--it was gorgeous and sunny yesterday afternoon, but windy, and of course we woke up to an inch of snow on the ground!!  Really?!?!?  Really, Oregon!??!  Lame.

Hoping for more spring soon!!

Sewing Circle: Prep and stripes and spring!

I love this dress.  Obvs, so did this reader, who sent me this Sewing Circle question!

Q: So one of my girlfriends and I found this dress while we were out shopping yesterday. We actually went into the store only because we saw it in the window! Unfortunately, when we looked at the price tag, the dress was $400, way too much for us poor, starving college students. Do you know of a similar pattern?

A: Thanks so much for reading, and thanks for your email! That is a super cute dress, and I know I’ve seen patterns for ones like it, with the bias meeting in the center front of the bodice… and the skirt is basic inverted pleated skirt; you don’t need a pattern because it’s just two panels of the fabric, in rectangles, pleated with inverted box pleats.

So: the bodice. Here are a couple I found that get the look:

• Vogue V8789.  You might have to adjust the neckline a little, but without the sleeves, it's very similar--just has princess seams instead of darts on the bodice.  I think this one is probably the closest.  Just cut the armholes and neckline down, maybe using another tank-like bodice pattern overlayed on top as a guide.

• Butterick B5455 has a very similar look!  Same silhouette for the neckline but has a midriff panel and pleats at the neck edge.  Again, do the skirt differently--just two panels of fabric to the length you want, pleated.

• You know, you also could try a regular dress pattern--ignoring the center line and diagonal stripes for a moment--and instead of cutting the center front on the fold, cut it on the bias, aligning your center stripes.  Something like Simplicity 1873 has the right darts and basic bodice shape; just make the neckline a V and cut each front half piece on the bias.

Do any of those look good?  None are perfect, I know, so hey, readers--have you seen the right thing??  Do share!

LOVE this lipstick! And it's for a good cause--check it out!

I'm really, really excited about this post today, folks.  I'm so glad I get to share with you a review of Radiant Cosmetics lipsticks, and tell you about this amazing company.

Started just last year by an amazing lady, Radiant's purpose is to end human trafficking with profits from the sale of high quality cosmetic products.  There's a pretty strong connection there, actually--the cosmetics industry generates $170 billion annually around the world, and human trafficking victims are made up of 80% women and girls.  By shopping consciously at great companies like this, we can help make a difference for victims in the US and abroad.  Radiant partners with anti-human trafficking organizations and donates 20% of its profits to their efforts.

If that wasn't enough reason, check out their makeup selection!  And great prices!!  A lot of mineral makeup choices, as well as eye makeup and liners and such in beautiful colors.  And, something I now have personal experience with, quality lipsticks!!

Nicole sent me a few shades of red to try--I've been searching for the perfect red for ages now!  Can you all help me pick the best shade for me?  Here are the ones I tried:

1. Flamenco! (matte)

2. Poppy! (moisturizing--feels soooo silky and smooth. Love it!)

3. Madrid! (matte)

4. Park Avenue! (moisturizing)

I originally thought the bright, orange-ey red of Flamenco was my fave, but now I'm leaning toward 2. or 3., Poppy or Madrid!  And I do love love love the texture of Poppy, one of the moisturizing lipsticks.  Which color do you like best???

I gotta say, these are really great quality lipsticks.  I love the smooth feel of the moisturizing ones, and they stayed on really well.  They feel so good to wear, despite the affordable price tag!  Next time you treat yourself to some makeup, Radiant is a great place to shop.  Great stuff, and your money goes to a good cause.  Win-win!

I really like following them on Facebook, too--updates about Nicole's travels and projects like the "Kissing Slavery Goodbye" campaign.  Check them out on Twitter as well!

A durable, quality ruffle pillow--tutorial!

You've seen ruffled throw pillows before, I'm suuuuure, but this one's a little different.  I've wanted to do something like this for a while, because who doesn't love ruffle fabric?, and it's so cute on pillows!  But I worried about the stretch of the background of the lovely pre-ruffled stuff--wouldn't it get stretched out as people sit on and play with the pillows?  Would the pillow cover end up loose and floppy after a few months?  Aack!

So, I came up with a solution, and here's a tutorial for how I turned some grey ruffle fabric (leftover from this project and also this project) into a lasting pillow!

• You'll need to start with a bit of of of pre-ruffled fabric, backing fabric (optional; you could do the whole thing ruffled), and muslin or any plain cotton (yardage amounts depend on the size of your pillow).  Could be old quilting fabric you're tired of, something you got cheap, whatever.  Oh, and you'll need a pillow form!  And a zipper.

• My pillow was 20" square, so I wanted the final pillow cover to be 20" also.  No wiggle room makes it look more professional!  I used 1/2" seam allowances all the way around, so I cut out two 21" x 21" squares of the interlining fabric--front and back.

•  Then, for the backing, cut out a 21" square of the back fabric.

• Then for the good stuff.  I cut out a 21" square (approx) of the ruffle fabric--however, it didn't quite line up so I cut it a little smaller.  I wanted to cut exactly in between two ruffles going the long way on the fabric.

• (To cut down for the other dimension, make sure you lay the ruffles flat so you cut them straight!)

• Now, you have four pieces--front square, back square, and two interlining squares.  I didn't have a grey invisible zipper of the right size, so I used a purple one--thought the color would be nice, actually.  And was too lazy to go to the store. ;)

• Now, carefully align your front square and an interlining square.  Pin every ruffle down flat, through all layers.  Pin up the very bottom ruffle so it doesn't get in the way of your bottom seam.

• Do the same thing on the back.  Lots of pressing flat with your hands to make the squares line up!  Then lots of pins.

• Now put in your zipper, through both layers of each side...

• Now, sew both sides together on the other three edges, being careful to keep those ruffles pinned pointing the right direction!

• Clip corners...

• And press your seams flat or to either direction, as best you can.

Done!!

Back view...

It almost goes with our grey West Elm bedding and fun circle pillow... can you tell I like grey? ;)

This ruffle fabric stuff is so much fun.  It's so fast and easy to make really beautiful, interesting projects.  Check out Ruffle Fabric if you're interested!